Saturday, November 19, 2011

Israel! Safed: Jewish History, Kabalah, and a B&B in the Artists Quarter!

The Artists Quarter, Safed
Midway through our fabulous month in Israel, thanks to the American Associates of Ben Gurion University of the Negev, we arrived in Safed (Tzfat in Hebrew) at night, in the dark, in the rain! The ancient city of Safed is a beautiful place, high (3200 feet) in the mountains of the Upper Galilee, and one of Israel's four Holy Cities (Jerusalem, Tzfat, Tiberius and Hebron). Safed is famous for the scholars who studied and developed Kabbalah (Jewish Mysticism), and for the great rabbis, such as Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, who said that the Messiah will come from Safed on his way to Jerusalem; the Ari HaKodesh (The Holy Ari) said that until the Third Temple is built, the Shechinah (God's Manifest Presence) rests above Safed. The biblical Shem and Ever, son and grandson of Noah (yes, the one who built the Ark), established their yeshiva (school) where Jacob (yes, the biblical Jacob of Abraham-Isaac-and-Jacob fame) studied for many years. The city flourished in the 16th century, when many famous Jewish religious scholars and mystics moved to Safed following the Spanish Expulsion, fleeing from the horrors of the Inquisition. Safed then became the spiritual center of the Jewish world, where Kabbalah reached the peak of its influence. Kabbalists, such as Rabbi Yitzhak Luria (Ha-Ari HaKadosh) and Rabbi Shlomo Alkabetz (author of Lecha Dodi) and Rabbi Yosef Karo (author of the Shulchan Aruch), just to name a few, made the city famous. It was here that the first printing press in the Middle East was erected, publishing in 1578 the first Hebrew book to be printed in Israel. At that time the town was a thriving trade center; later Safed's people were to suffer terribly from earthquakes, plagues, and Arab attacks. In modern times, the liberation of Safed was one of the most dramatic episodes in the 1948 War of Independence, and the Davidka Monument in downtown Safed displays the crude but effective cannon that helped win the battles for Safed and The Citadel in 1948.

Davidka Monument, Safed

The Artists Quarter, the old part of Safed, consists of delightful narrow cobblestone alleys full of artist's galleries, medieval synagogues, lovely private homes and gardens, and small guest houses, such as the charming Bar El Bed-and-Breakfast where we stayed for three nights. When I read how the BarEls restored their historic home and opened it as a bed-and-breakfast it resonated with me, as that was what Dan & I did with the Elkhorn Inn! The big difference is that an "old" building in Landgraff, WV means it was built in 1922, and an "old" building in Safed means it was constructed prior to 1500!
In the 1980s I came to Safed to write an article for an Israeli Education Dept. publication on "Livnot v'Lehibanot" (To Build and to Be Built), a program involving students in both ongoing archaeology and personal discovery in Safed. I was lucky to meet a couple who had immigrated to Israel from Canada and had bought a home in Safed; they decided to dig down below their floor- uncovering the history of Safed, layer by layer- and they kept digging until they hit the Crusader-era toilets, which became the amazing highlight of their basement! The last time I'd been in Safed was in 1985 when I was in the Israeli Army. The Education Corps sent me to Safed to illustrate a book on Safed's history, and I spent a wonderful week traveling around Safed with my pens and pads, making detailed pen-and-ink illustrations of buildings and historic sites dating from ancient times thru the War of Independence in 1948...



Safed, in the mist...


"The Purple Door" to the BarEl B&B,
our home in Safed!



A hand-painted
electrical box in Safed!
 
Artists Quarter, Safed


Our guest room
BarEl B&B
 

Dan, at home! BarEl B&B


Our guest room, BarEl B&B
 

Ronen: Mr. Lachouch!
During our days in Safed, Dan and I went to the International Center for Kabballah in Safat, which has a variety of truly unique learning experiences to offer, and we stopped nearby for a delicious light lunch of Yemenite Lachouch, fried pancakes topped with vegetables and Yemenite spices and herbs, made by Ronen,  Mr. Lachouch, himself!

Wandering through the beautiful stone alleyways full of galleries we found the Canaan Gallery, a wonderful weaver's gallery and workshop where Orna Mor and her staff creates hand-woven textiles influenced by Kabbalistic teachings of Safed, as well as the nature that surrounds the town. In creating Judaica, talit (prayer shawls), kippot (head-coverings), challah covers (ceremonial covers for the Sabbath bread), and other beautiful things, Orna weaves designs which not only visualize the holidays and life-cycle events that the objects are going to be used for, but include the concepts that these ceremonies represent. I loved the beautiful, locally hand-made things in her shop, as well as her delightful cafe with its views of the city, and we bought gifts for friends there, as well as two special ceramic pomegranates for the Elkhorn Inn...
Orna, Canaan Gallery, Safed

Dan, with a weaver at Canaan Gallery, Safed

Thread colored with Tchelet, the ancient and famed blue dye,
used for prayer shawl tzizit (tassels); Canaan Gallery, Safed

Canaan Gallery weaving studio, Safed

From the Cafe at Canaan Gallery, Safed


Safed is also famous for its ancient cemetery, and people come from all over the world to sit, pray, beseech, or simply be in the company of the great rabbis who are buried there. The most famous is Rabbi Isaac Luria, also known as the Holy Ari, who came to Tzfat in 1530 from Egypt, and was one of the most famous Kabbalists of all times. Next to the Ari is buried his son, Rabbi Moshe Luria, and nearby are the graves of Rabbi Moshe Alsheich, Rabbi Shlomo Alkabetz (author of Lecha Dodi, the song that welcomes Shabbat (the Sabbath), and Rabbi Yosef Caro, author of the Shulhan Aruch, the Code of Jewish Law. The cemetery is ancient; some of the oldest graves are those of Hosea the Prophet, Rav Pinchas Ben Yair (father-in-law of Rav Shimon Bar Yochai, composer of the Kabalistic Book of the Zohar in the 1st century A.D.), and, some believe, Chana and her Seven Sons of Hanukkah fame! Dan and I went to the cemetery so I could say prayers for health and "Refuah Shlemah" (complete healing), and for security for the State of Israel at the grave of the Holy Ari, and we found the medieval Ashkenazi (Eastern European) Ari Synagogue, with it's magnificent carved Torah Ark and Kabbalah-motif stained glass windows...

The graves of the Rabbis, Safed


The graves of the Rabbis, Safed

The ancient cemetery of Safed

Safed cemetery, with the 1948 graves and memorial
from the War of Independence




The Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue, Safed


The Ark, Ari Synagogue, Safed


Kabala window
Ari Synagogue, Safed






















Lunch was blintzes and pizza at "Art Cafe", a garden cafe overlooking the city and the country...
Art Cafe, Safed











...and dinner was a delicious shvarma (grilled lamb or turkey, on the spit) from a "hole in the wall" stand on Kikar HaMaganim in the old city! A pita filled to overflowing with grilled lamb slices, topped with an assortment of salads, peppers, pickles, and sweet-tart Amba, an Indian-Jewish mango sauce that's so yummy it could make cardboard a delicacy! All to the tune of hip Hasidic "Breslaw" music! Then we quenched our thirsts with yummy Mint Lemonade at the cafe across the courtyard...

In the late afternoon we found ourselves in trendy, modern, downtown Safed, and rested our weary feet at a cafe and enjoyed a cappuccino- a.k.a. Cafe Hafouch, or "upside-down coffee"!
Modern, downtown Safed:
things that make me smile!

Garage doors, Safed
















Next: Horseback Riding in the Galilee, Roman ruins in Tiberius, gourmet Nazareth, & a 2000 year old boat!

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Israel! Golan Heights: Druze villages, a waterfall, wineries and MEAT!


The Golan Heights, Israel

Let me start this blog post by stating that (sadly) I did NOT get to go skiing! :-( I have wanted to ski Mt. Hermon in the Golan Heights in Israel for 30 years (and have been bragging all this time howt you can ski & snorkel in Israel on the same day!), & with Dan's blessing (he doesn't ski) I planned this small part of our truly fabulous month in Israel (made possible by Ben Gurion University of the Negev) in the hopes that there might still be snow on the Hermon in April! No such luck! We were too late for the snow- as you can see from the glorious flowers- & I didn't get to ski! G-d willing, I WILL get to ski Mt. Hermon, and sooner rather than later!

Dan and I drove up to Neve Ativ in the high mountains of the Golan Heights from Akko, and passed thru several Druze Villages, including Majdal Shams, where I photographed the extraordinary sculpture depicting Druze culture and history in the town centers. I had many Druze friends in the Israeli Border Patrol in Jerusalem, all of them Israeli Army (IDF) veterans from Israel's top units. I'd illustrated an important meeting of the Druze Sheikhs Amin Tarif (who was awarded the Israel Prize in 1990, and who died in 1993) and Kamel Tarif  in Julis in 1982, as well, and I have great respect for the Druze people and their culture. The Druze religion is, in many ways, a 'secret' religion, but the website  http://www.druze.org.au/religion/index.htm provides a great deal of interesting information. A monotheistic religion that recognises the prophets Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, & Muhammad, the Druze believe in the divinity of al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah (985 – 1021?), the sixth caliph of the Fatimid dynasty of Egypt, & believe in reincarnation & transmigration of the soul: that, at death, one's soul is instantaneously reincarnated & reborn into another life, & through successive reincarnations, the soul eventually unites with the Cosmic Mind. Interestingly, Druze women can and do attain high positions of religious significance; their rights are almost identical to those of men, and Druze women are preferred over men in joining the uqqal (sages), leaders of the Druze religious community, as they are considered to be better "spiritually prepared". And Druze men serve in the Israeli Army. The Druze Star is made up of 5 colors: green for "the mind", necessary for understanding the truth, red for "the soul"; yellow for "the word", the purest form of expression of the truth, blue for the mental power of the will, and white, the realization of blue, where its power has been materialized in the world of matter.
I remember with great fondness and deep appreciation how my Druze friends in the Border Patrol protected me when I called them for help, & how they visited me while I was in the Israel Army and in the hospital in Jerusalem, running down the hall in uniform to see their "little sister"- to the amazement of the other patients! (And boy, was I proud!) They jokingly said I was "hetzi Druzit" (half Druze), all of us knowing that such a thing wasn't possible: if you are Druze & marry outside of the religion, that's it: your children are no longer Druze. (You cannot convert & become a Druze, either). The Druze are famous for their hospitality: three interesting sites about visiting Druze villages in Israel are Holiday In Israel - Druze Villages  and Druze and Circassian Villages in the Galilee and Carmel and Tourist Israel - Druze Hospitality.
Druze Village Sculpture


Druze Village Sculpture




















Driver Dan and I spent so much time enjoying the fascinating trip up and down the mountains through the villages, that we got to our adorable "Alpine Chalet" at the Rimonim Holiday Village in a pitch-dark, foggy downpour, and it was a Joy to finally sit ourselves down in their cozy bar and enjoy an Israeli beer and a glass of wine!
Road Food! "Mc-Drive"
We HAD to do this- for Dan! LOL


Spring green! On the road through the Golan...


Our Alpine Cottage at Rimon Holiday Village
Neve Ativ, Golan Heights, Israel


Happy Dan w/his Israeli beer!
And happy me, with my Israeli wine!

Rimon Holiday Village 
 The next morning we drove up to Mt. Hermon, but the rain was so heavy and the fog was so thick that we couldn't get to the very top. :-(
Villages in the Golan, from Mt. Hermon

Love in the Golan!

Dan, Mt. Hermon, Golan Heights
Mt. Hermon: as far as we could go!











So we compensated by finding a magical waterfall, and then going
wine-tasting thru the Golan Heights!
Where Route 989 meets 99 we accidentally found the magnificent Banias Waterfall & Nahal Hermon Reserve, a place I'd wanted to see for decades! Named for the 5 grottos in the nearby cliff that are remnants of a shrine to the god Pan (the origin of the name Panias (or Banias, as it's pronounced in Arabic), the Banias spring begins at the foot of Mount Hermon, & its water rushes with great force through a canyon-like channel, dropping 190 meters over a course of 3.5 kilometers, & forming the Banias waterfall, one of the most beautiful in Israel! After 9 kilometers, the Hermon River meets the Dan River, & the two flow into the Jordan River. A staircase connects the Banias spring to the Banias cave; at one time the spring actually bubbled from within the cave. A short path leads from the cave to a white structure atop a step on the cliff, which is the graveside of the Druze Saint Nebe Hader, and outside the cave are the remains of a temple built by Herod! The site Caesarea Philippi is holy to Christians, as well, and Christians who make pilgrimages to Banias use the two prayer areas there.
It's truly an amazingly beautiful place!


Nahal Hermon Reserve - Banias Waterfall

Dan, at Banias

Us!

Alpine flowers in the Golan


Fresh Zatar!




1973 (Yom Kippur War) memorial to 
fallen soldiers Yoel Porat and Avi Diashi
Golan Heights, Israel

The Golan Heights, Israel



















Our next stop was Bazelet HaGolan, a boutique winery in Moshav Kidmat Zvi. The rich Golan Heights soil lies over a cap of basalt (bazelet) rock, & thus creates an ideal wine-growing climate; the careful attention paid to all aspects of the natural wine production process (Bazelet HaGolan's grapes are harvested by hand, for example, & their wine is aged in special oak casks designed to bring out their unique flavors & aromas), all contribute to the outstanding quality of their Cabernet Sauvignon. We had a delightful wine tasting and bought bottle of both their excellent Cabernet and powerfully yummy Grappa!
Wine Tasting, Bazelet HaGolan Winery















Our next stop was the world-famous Golan Heights Winery, which truly put Israel on the world's fine wine map. Most famous for their "Yarden", "Gamla", and "Golan" wines, the winery was founded in 1983, long before Israel had 300+ award winnng wineries, and is located in Katzrin, high up on the Golan Heights. We took their tour, & had both a wine tasting & a lesson in pouring, savoring, & appreciating fine wine, and then (of course) we bought several bottles to take home- and local olive oil, too!
Golan Heights Winery




Wine Tasting, Golan Heights Winery












Our final stop of the day was for a GREAT- and truly gourmet - dinner of Israeli-ranch-raised meat at Meat Shos! 
Meat on the grill, at the table, at Meat Shos

Carpaccio!

A wonderful dinner at Meat Shos!


Wild West Israel! Israeli Cattle Ranch & Cowboy

Art Show at the Fire House














Meat Shos is NOT easy to find, but I'd read about how they featured only fine meats from Israeli ranches (YES, we have ranches in Israel!), and with Dan driving & me with the map on my lap & reading the Hebrew road signs, find it we finally did! Meat Shos is in a small strip mall known as the Qasrin Industrial Park, next to a Fire Station that hosts art exhibits(!), and it does help if you can read Hebrew signage! But BOY was it worth the trek! Their meats are sold by weight, prepared to order, and described by their Golan Heights ranch pedigrees, & they have a great selection of Golan Heights wines, too! We had another one of our "tasting" dinners, & so got to sample a selection of delicious, local beef, lamb, and sausages prepared in a variety of special ways, along with an assortment of house-made salads, and a truly scrumptious Druze Sineya, made with ground meat, tehina, and spices!
After dinner we enjoyed the Fire House Art Show, and then drove to our next destination: Safed!

Next: Safed: Jewish History, Kabalah, and a B-&-B in the Artist's Quarter!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Cruise Review: RCCL Liberty of the Seas. Bottom line: BAD beyond belief.

We take a break from our regularly scheduled programming to bring you a cruise review of RCCL Royal Caribbean's "Liberty of the Seas". This review is also published on Cruise Critic: http://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=91206
As our first RCCL cruise in 2010 on "Freedom of the Seas" was such glorious fun that I blogged about it extenisvely on this blog, with tons of photos & links, we booked a second RCCL cruise, with every intention of booking a third while onboard. This one, however, was such a major disappointment- and so upsetting, due to unbelievably bad customer service, that it repeatedly left me in tears- that we sent a 9-page letter(!) to the CEO, Adam Goldstein, to which we received an insulting and abysmal response: 2 ridiculous "discount certificates" we'd have to add thousands of dollars to in order to redeem- something that is definitely NOT happening! RCCL's patronizing Customer Service rep told me they're handing these useless certificates out now like candy, so our experience is obviously not unique, and the line is pbviously in deep trouble. As our travel agent wasn't able to get RCCL's corporate management to take any responsibility for their abysmal service either, I am now publishing my review.

As readers of this blog know, we are in the hospitality business, owning the Elkhorn Inn & Theatre in West Virginia for the last 9+ years, so we know a bit about what it takes to create an excellent customer service experience. Our week on RCCL's "Freedom of the Seas" in 2010 was wonderful thanks to truly exceptional customer service at all levels. As this cruise coincided with our 6th wedding anniversary, I added RCCL's $142.00 "Anniversary Package" as a surprise for my husband; it was a surprise, all right, but not a good one. RCCL totally messed it up, leaving me in tears, and Guest Relations was snarky and nasty about it, as they were about everything throught this entire cruise. Over the course of the week we received numerous, long-winded messages on our stateroom phone from a variety of "Guest Services" personnel, each one insisting that we were wrong and they were right, and that RCCL was in no way responsible for anything. Finally, and way too late for it to have any meaning, we were grudgingly offered a dinner at Portofino- food only(!)- at which the waitress, who we have to assume meant well, told me "I can see that you were beautiful when you were young". As I was 51 at the time and not exactly an ancient crone, I was so stunned by her comment that I sat there with a stupid smile on my face as tears filled my eyes. I said nothing, but my husband looked at her and said "She's still beautiful". This was my grand, romantic anniversary cruise dinner. I can't recall what we ate... (After our letter to the CEO, RCCL refunded my $142. This was the beginning and end of what they did to recify a week-long nightmare).
RCCL didn't bother to invite us to the "Welcome Back" cocktail party for Crown & Anchor Society Members, and the response by Ms. Guest Relations to our query as to why, was to simply shrug her shoulders at me. When I told Ms. Guest Relations that after our wonderful experience last year we were sadly disappointed this year, she cut me off mid-sentence, sarcastically saying, with a smirk, in front of other guests: "Then you won't take another cruise, right"? Stunned by her nastiness, I said, "No, we'll just cruise with another company".
This week-long customer service fiasco colored our entire cruise- and not in a good way. During our week on the Liberty we met with numerous other guests, most of whom were complaining about the terrible service. This is an awful way to meet and "bond" with other passengers! We were actually told by other guests- who spoke Spanish- that "the service is better if you speak Spanish". This is absolutely unacceptable.
From the moment we embarked in Miami, RCCL staff began telling us that the Liberty was going into dry dock the minute our cruise was over. This was news to us, and we truly didn't know what this meant at the time, but we heard this at least once a day, sometimes several times a day. We learned- the hard way- that a "pre-dry-dock cruise" is a recipe for disaster: the ship will be in terrible disrepair and the crew won't give a hoot about anything or anyone. BOTTOM LINE: DO NOT TAKE A PRE-DRY-DOCK CRUISE! One crew member even told a group of us that the staff "hated dry dock" because "2 weeks without tourists we don't make any money". As the ship was obviously in need of serious repairs (non-working elevators, non-flushing toilets and urinals in flooded men's rooms, catching my shoe in a raised stair-edging in the piano bar and flying forward down the stairs (one waiter tried to help by pulling at my foot while I lay face-down on the stairs, until I finally begged him to stop before he broke my ankle, at which point I managed to pull my foot out of my shoe and then my shoe out of the stair edging), and, finally, the flashing "strobe" light in our stateroom ), it was obvious that the ship was definitely in need of repair, but also that the crew couldn't have cared less about the guests on this voyage. The smiling and helpful crew on our previous RCCL cruise- who one and all truly seemed to be "into" their jobs and having a good time at them- had been replaced by sour-faced staffers muttering to each other in the hallways, cursing at the top of their lungs in the bar (see below), and being only superficially-and barely- nice to guests when required. They were busily packing up long before we disembarked; it started during our dinner on our last evening at sea, when, as the photo kiosk reminded us that evening (as we unsuccessfully tried to purchase photos), as far as RCCL was concerned, our cruise was already over.
Security personnel who do not understand English are a Serious and dangerous problem. So serious that it dawned on us that perhaps the RCCL Security man we tried unsuccessfully to communicate with when re-embarking the ship in Grand Cayman was pretending not to understand us- also a totally unacceptable situation. On our previous RCCL cruise we had the pleasure of dealing with Israeli security personnel; he was charming and fluent in English, as well as being a total professional, and by his very presence and manner made us feel both safe and secure. The security personnel on this cruise made us feel neither, a rather alarming experience.
My husband wound up spending basically our entire first day at sea (and the only day we had to enjoy the sun, as it turned out) running around the ship making and then cancelling reservations, a frustrating waste of basically an entire day, because the Salon refused to rebook a hair appointment so that we could attend a wine dinner we had booked. Given that we spent well over $1000 in the spa and salon during our trip on both men's and women's services, we felt this was absolutely wrong- and the icing on the cake was that I was the ONLY person in the salon during my two appointments! It never dawned on me that the staff wouldn't work with us to reschedule appointments so we could attend additional events (and spend additional money).
Because the evening events on this cruise were apparently designed around early diners, there were numerous events aboard ship that we had hoped to enjoy that we couldn't- basically every night. Another disapppointment. A cruise should be a vacation with multiple opportunities to enjoy what the ship has to offer at appropriate and convenient times for both families and adults, not a rush-around, cattle-car experience from hell.
My husband encountered a men's restroom with its floor filled with water (and, presumably, urine) from an overflowing, clogged urinal, as well as several out-of-order men's room toilets. Had we encountered anything like that on our first RCCL cruise we would never have booked another. This total lack of necessary service was interestingly counterpointed by overzealous pool and bar staff who repeatedly removed full or half-empty drinks from our tables. Close your eyes for one minute or turn away for a moment to talk to someone and your drink was gone. Yes, they were replaced upon our asking at the bars, but this was both annoying and embarrassing.
We never received either toiletries or "turn down" chocolates in our stateroom during this entire cruise. This was inexplicable, as the attendant's cart on which both the toiletries and chocolates were displayed sat outside our stateroom day after day. Finally, on the last day, I gave our Stateroom Attendant a note, asking if there was a reason we had never received either. In response, I received a phone call from yet another "Guest Relations" staffer while my husband was resting. I asked her to please respond in writing, as my husband was resting and it was not a good time for me to take a call. Naturally, I never received either a response or an explanation. Some days we got four towels, some days only two, leaving an empty rack. To say the stateroom service was odd is an understatement.
But yes, we still tipped, idiots that we obviously are.
From Day One of our cruise we were bombarded by requests to tip, starting with a letter to that effect on our bed the first night! On our previous RCCL cruise we didn't receive a note on our bed about tipping until mid-way through the cruise, and considering the extraordinarily poor service we received on this cruise, this angered us. Having read in a tourism B-2-B publication about issues with RCCL guests not tipping, I now understand why.
The excursions we booked on our previous RCCL cruise were wonderful- the absolute highlights of our vacation. This time RCCL destroyed most of them.
Our excellent first tour to Mayan ruins in Costa Maya, Mexico was spoiled by "Rita", the RCCL Excursion Manager, and other members of the RCCL staff, who stood by the ship clapping and yelling at our group to "hurry up" as we were walking back to board the ship. Rita also made sure we knew, the second we got off the tour bus, that we couldn't stop to buy anything else, but had to "run" back to the ship as fast as possible; it was like being on a 5th grade class trip, but a cruise is not a 5th grade class trip, nor is it a military exercise. If we want to be herded like cattle, bossed around like sheep, and reprimanded like unruly children, we don't need to spend many thousands of dollars for the privilege and plan for it all year long. (To add to the insult, there were trolleys available- we saw them sitting by the ship, with drivers!- that could have taken us from the tour bus right to the ship, had RCCL really needed us back in such a hurry. To top it off, after boarding, we got to listen to repeated pagings for guests who were still not aboard, making it clear that the patronizing clapping and rushing of our group was not necessary).
Our second excursion, tubing and ziplining in Belize, would have been grand, except that the ziplining portion was so overcrowded that we not only spent most of our time waiting on line, but the sour-faced, overtaxed ziplining staff literally pushed us off the platforms before the previous zipper had arrived safely at the next platform! Amazingly and fortunately, no one was hurt, but several came close to being hurt, including my husband, and frankly, that's nuts. And all because it was overcrowded and rushed.
I booked our third excursion, to the Playa Mia resort in Cozumel for the "Mexican Cuisine Workshop and Tasting", specifically because this was the only excursion available in any of the ports that offered the opportunity to JetSki. After the class- which was enjoyable- we were told by the Playa Mia staff that the JetSkis were no longer available, and that they were "surprised" that RCCL still had it listed on their website. As we saw Sea Doos in Grand Cayman and one was even on display on the Liberty, but we weren't able to do it anywhere, we were very disappointed.
Our final excursion, to go snorkeling and to Stingray City in Grand Cayman was an RCCL-caused fiasco from the beginning, owing to an hour-plus delay by the tenders, as RCCL allowed the first one to leave the ship half-filled, leaving us sitting in a half-filled tender for an hour. When we finally got to the pier we were ordered- and I do mean ordered- by the tour personnel to "run after the man in the yellow hat" as our tour was leaving without us! Our group did just that, only to be told to run back to the man who'd told us to run in the first place. Then we were herded onto a bus that didn't have enough seating for everyone in our group, and were ordered to "move over and make room" for a family of 5 people, which was impossible. Some of our group were then put onto another bus, and by the time we got on the road for our 10am departure tour, it was after 12 noon. Due to RCCL's mismanagement, our snorkeling wound up being 15 ghastly minutes in water so stupefyingly overcrowded with tourists that all we did was bump into other snorkelers. Unlike on other such snorkeling excursions, we had no guide, no food to help draw in the fish, no nothing. I'm an experienced snorkeler, and I saw literally nothing, and spent my 15 minutes constantly bumping into other snorkelers, for a truly miserable and scary experience. Having looked forward to snorkeling in Grand Cayman for two years we were deeply disappointed. The boat was filled to capacity with VERY sour-faced cruisers- not one smile among any of them. We were then taken to Stingray City, which wound up being the highlight of our trip, and it was extremely enjoyable, marred only by being ridiculously overcrowded, with people constantly bumping into each other. We paid $30 for the CD of photos taken of us with the stingrays, and when we got back to the ship we met other cruisers who had been on another RCCL Stingray City excursion and had been asked for $50 for the CD and thus didn't buy it; they were quite upset. This is absolutely unacceptable.
It was to "Rita", the lead RCCL Excursion staff member, that I went when I had a problem. Bad idea. Her response was another "RCCL Customer Service Shrug".
One small thing doesn't matter. 20 "small" things, coupled with a number of big things, however, becomes a Very big thing, and ruins a vacation.
The last night of the cruise, however, took the prize for ugly:
As we sat at the Casino Bar on our last night at sea, we were joined at the bar by approx 10 RCCL staff members, whose every other word- literally- was "f*ck". At no time did the bartender do or say anything to remind them that they were sitting next to guests, and since we recognized several staffers, we knew that they were aware that they were sitting with paying cruise guests and simply didn't care- and wanted us to be Very aware of that fact. We thus got to listen to them cursing and swearing and having a grand and foul-mouthed time of it until the bar finally shut down. It was quite the experience.
Having been told by staff that the casino closed when it was empty (which we already knew wasn't true, as it was literally closed down on us one night as we were playing the slot machines), we watched the casino close down despite having two tables completely filled with active, playing gamblers! (On our cruise last year the casino was open all night and was a lot of fun; on this one it was never open all night, and evidently nothing else was either, for late at night the ship felt sad and empty, silent and devoid of people).
RCCL's final touch was the morning of our departure, when we stupidly thought to have a last, elegant breakfast of Eggs Benedict in the dining room as we had done on our previous RCCL cruise. Instead, we were herded through three almost-empty dining rooms and shoved into a corner at a table with 3 other guests, after which we were trapped in by 6 more, and then fed a pitiful Denny's diner breakfast. We could get neither Eggs Benedict nor a Bloody Mary- nor much of anything else. Mid-breakfast I had to walk around the half-deserted dining rooms to try to find a waiter in order to request Tabasco sauce. Even Denny's doesn't have service that bad. This is our last memory of a vacation that was deeply disappointing from start to finish.
There were several good things, and several people who did provide excellent customer service: Vintages, the wine bar, had an excellent head sommelier who made us welcome & happily surprised us with ashtrays! We had an excellent time participating in Chefmakers "Cooking Around the World" event; the instructor chef, Michael Gusman, was excellent, the service was superb, and we not only learned a lot, we enjoyed splendid food in wonderful company. The Acupuncturist, Timothy Schlenk, at the Spa, was excellent, and extremely helpful to both my husband and I, and perhaps the most valuable thing we took from this cruise. The Spa's "Couples Massage" was also excellent- truly one of The best massages we've ever had. And the Shopping Desk Manager was Truly helpful, and the ONLY member of the RCCL staff on this cruise whose attitude and abilities reminded us of the stellar service we received on our RCCL cruise last year.
Another "small thing" concerns selling drinking water- at $3.50 a bottle!- to cruisers, when, in our opinion, drinking water must be GIVEN to cruisers leaving a ship in tropical ports where drinking water is not a luxury. Drinking water is a total and absolute medical necessity in the tropics, especially for people not accustomed to living in the tropics. This was Especially upsetting in Labadee on our last RCCL cruise, as Labadee had no potable water. It was angering to find this policy still in place on this RCCL cruise, especially after we learned of at least 2 people who had passed out and collapsed. Cruisers are often older people, and people unaccustomed to living in the tropics; not providing them with drinking water in the tropics is dangerous, as well as ethically wrong.
After disembarking from the Liberty, and when we were finally seated in a cafe in Florida, my husband turned to me and said, "NOW it feels like we're on vacation!" That said it all, and what it said broke my heart.
Bottom line: We will cruise again, and are looking forward to it, as we know how great it can be, but not with RCCL, a company that is obviously in serious trouble, as 300 emails in my inbox daily touting their "bargain" cruises ("one week cruise for $385!") can attest to.